First there was Seiko. And then there was Grand Seiko, the hidden gem of Japanese watchmaking, rivalling the top swiss luxury brands, known only to the nerdiest watch community. Grand Seiko was only available for the japanese domestic market and seldom available outside the country. In 2017, Grand Seiko was launched as a brand internationally and changed their logo to reflect the pinnacle of their watchmaking expertise.
This particular Grand Seiko SBGA201 honours the classic first model in their Spring Drive Collection in 2004. It's the successor to the SBGA001, from the Heritage Collection. This updated model carries the latest brand and logo, and keeps the dial clean, with less clutter compared to the original predecessor. As with all Grand Seikos, the entire watch case is hand finished by skilled artisans in their trademark ‘Zaratsu’ polishing. Inside the watch is the famed spring drive Cal.9R65 with 72 hours power reserve - the only type of movement of its kind in the world today. The second hands sweep like no automatic watch ever could - it's truly something to behold in person - and no, it's not a quartz either. It's the one and only Grand Seiko Spring Drive.
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive (SBGA201)
The first thing that captivates your attention when you put this on your wrist, or any Grand Seiko for that matter, is the stunning dial. Like all Grand Seikos, the dials are truly extraordinary - all the trademark finishing is present here - their perfectly polished indices and hour/minute/second hands that reflects the light like finely cut diamond. The dial itself changes it's colour depending on the light - from the warm champagne tones to a silverish colour. Although it looks like a simple dial, the truth is it is in face a very dynamic dial due to the the way the entire dial plays with the light.
The next thing you will notice immediately is how smooth the second hands 'sweep' across time. There is something powerful in the fluidity of the seconds hands moving instead of ticking. Isn't it true that time doesn't really tick in reality but instead moves fluidly? The only thing breaking up the symmetry of the dial is the power reserve indicator - which to be honest gives a unique feel to the watch. You know its a spring drive because of that power reserve.
Turn the watch around and you can continue to admire the beautiful in house movement, finished meticulously in comparison with swiss watches that are of a higher price bracket. As stunning as the dial is, the movement is also a sight to behold - Japanese artisan craftsmanship at its best. Everything is razor sharp, polished, with decorative stripes across the movement. Owners of this watch with enjoy not only the dial side of the watch, but also the movement at the back.The watch wears like a sport watch, with a large dial, short lugs and comes with a beautiful steel bracelet. When size correctly it wears light and doesn't feel clunky at all, unlike some swiss made bracelets. The sides are also Zaratsu polished and complements the entire watch as a casual sports watch. It reminds me of classic Omega Speedmaster bracelets, but lighter and with more shine.
We also put it on a classic black alligator strap - this transforms the watch to a more dressy or formal style. The contrast with a black leather strap makes the dial colour appear more silver in colour - just like a dress watch. With a neutral coloured dial like that, I'm certain this watch will also pair well with other coloured straps.
There really is nothing quite like this at this price point - you’re getting a stunning, beautiful hand finished timepiece, a brand with horological heritage, appreciated by watch collectors around the world.
